Q: WHAT ARE THE TWO TYPES OF COLOR MATCHING? Color matching works in one of 3 ways: 1) A color code match, where a formula contains a set amount of PPG for the 3 color bases (cyan, magenta and yellow) as well as hue, value and chroma. 2) A site scan done using a spectrophotometer (which our company has, our project manager keeps one in case you need it). This method analyzes a surface to get the assessed amount of each color, hue, value and chroma. 3) A third way is by breaking a paint chip off the surface, to be analyzed at the store by the store's spectrophotometer. (Scroll down)

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Generally speaking, #1 will give you an exact match for the paint that you want, provided that you are using the same brand, line and finish as originally done. (If you just want the color itself, matching the brand is generally sufficient.) #2 and #3 give you a somewhat accurate color match, but choosing an exact color from a Fandeck is a better choice.(Fandeck shown below. All of our customers can receive and keep an entire fandeck upon request, once you have committed to doing business with us.)

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Q: WHY DOES COLOR MATCHING TEND TO NOT WORK AFTER 1-2 YEARS?

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There are a lot of reasons for why color matching doesn't work after 1-2 years. Read below to see, in scientific detail, for why this is:

 

1) After that time, the paint will have faded and discolored:

 

-Due to UV radiation: Ultraviolet light from the sun (and much smaller, but present, amounts in indoor lighting) will over time discolor the surface. Specifically: Alkyds, oils and organic binders tend to yellow; bright colors tend to fade; paints with titanium dioxide (often ceiling paints) are susceptible to chalking over time; and certain pigments (iron oxide, carbon black, chromium oxide green, prussian blue and cadmium sulfide, among others) tend to darken. 

 

-Due to Oxidation: This is a chemical reaction where oxygen causes the paint's binders and pigments to oxidize and change their structure. This results in fading, degrading, yellowing, or chalking.

 

-Gradual hydrolysis: Hydrolysis occurs when moisture (either slowly through it's presence in air, or rapidly from a leak, although a leak is not necessary for hydrolysis over time) breaks down the paint's components. This changes the colors of organic pigments. Acrylic and alkyd resins slowly break down into carboxylic acids (RCOOH) and alcohols (ROH)over time. This reduces their integrity and appearance. Latex resins break down into acetic acid and vinyl alcohol, which weakens their polymer matrix and also leads to discoloring. 

 

-Surface contamination: Particles in air from dirt, dust, smoke, pet dander or hair, etc can discolor the surface, leading to a different appearance compared to the newly painted (and clean) touch up spot. 

 

-Chemical reaction from trace air chemicals (like sulfur dioxide and nitrogen oxides). This weakens the paint slowly through acidity and corrosion; as it deteriorates, the paint will develop discoloration, chalking, or a rougher texture. 

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2) After 1-2 years, the paint can generally becomes spoiled. This is because:

 

-Solvents and water slowly evaporate, even from a closed container;

 

-Slow exposure to air results in oxidation;

 

-Contaminants (particularly, bacteria and mold) can enter when the can was previously opened. This is more of a factor in water-based paints. 

 

-Polymerization: Some paints contain polymers that cross-link over time. As these paints age, the polymer chains can linik together more extensively, which increases the paint's viscosity and make it unable to be applied effectively.

 

In conclusion: After 2 years is a general timeframe for when almost all previously opened cans of paint are no longer usable, and it's often as short as 1 year. Paints in the 1-2 year range should be carefully checked by us; paints after 2 years should be discarded, as the huge risks of using spoiled paint are not worth the slight benefits.

 

 

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 UV radiation             Oxidation           Polymerization              Pets​

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Q: DOES COLOR MATCHING ACROSS BRANDS WORK, OR WILL THE COLOR BE OFF?

 

Color matching across brands (using method #1, an exact color code from a competing paint brand) will typically provide a close, but not exact, color match. This method is only ever acceptable if fully repainting, and it is recommended that client sample the color on their own first before having us pick up and order the paint. The white color bases between brands are extremely close, but not quite exact. With that said, color matching usually gets a bad rap because of people who use the #2/#3 option, as these matches are not nearly as accurate/exact as color matching. Generally when painting a new surface with a new color, it's more important to get the correct product (brand/line/finish) and to color match. You definitely do not want to use a wrong/incompatible product just to get a color match. 

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The only reason color matching between brands using method #1 will not be exactly accurate, is because the white color base (which the paint comes in) will not be exactly the same (although the white base will be very close), and different pigments, binders (resins), solvents and additives are used in different paints.

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However, with that said, although the color base is usually the same for all the similar-type paints of the same brand, the pigments, binders, solvents and additives are usually different between "lines" (qualities) of paint from that same brand. For example, Sherwin-Williams Duration in a certain color, will look slightly different from Sherwin-Williams Cashmere in the same color. ​

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The BEST guarantee of getting the EXACT color, is taking our paint recommendations that we provide for each surface; and choosing your colors from the fandeck for the specific brand recommended for that surface. Our designer can also help you with this! 

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Q: WILL I BE ABLE TO COLOR MATCH A PRE-PAINTED SURFACE IN ORDER TO DO TOUCH UPS?

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This is generally not a good idea, UNLESS all of the following conditions are met:

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1) The paint job must have been done within the last 1-2 years max (see Q above)

2) The same brand, line, finish and color must be used;

3) You must have the original can of paint, sealed, stored only in room temperature, in usable condition(complicated, but sometimes the exact same brand and line from different time periods may use different additives, binders, etc due to mining/shipping supply availability, which can throw color off.)

4) The surface must be clean and free of any dirt, dust, pollen, pet hair, or anything else. If a paint surface is even very slightly dirty, the new paint will stick out. For these reasons, our company respectfully declines to do any "touch up" projects unless they are part of a larger painting project being done the standard way (full repaint), due to liability reasons.

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We strongly recommend avoiding spot touch-ups if possible, as it is impossible to know going into it that you will be completely satisfied when the chances of it matching are statistically very low, even if everything possible is done to get the match as close as possible. Thank you so much for understanding. 

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